This is a slip stitch crochet pattern. For these fingerless mitts I have used the stitch combination one row B, one row F, which makes a nice surface. Rows with mainly B stitches are on right side, rows with mainly F stitches are wrong side. No inverse stitches are used!
Yarn: fingering weight.
For the red pair I have used Onion Nettle Sock Yarn (70% wool, 30% nettle fibers, 185 m/ 50 g). Colours 1006, 1008 and 1015, 15 g of each colour.
If you have scrap yarn - 15 g (60 meters/65 yards) of each colour should be enough. (One colour for the background, one for the leaves and one for the flowers.)
In the pattern I call the colours "white" for the background, "green" for the leaves and "red" for the flowers.
For the light pink pair I have used:
Järbo garn Mio - 100 % merino - color 30222 (pink)
Filcolana Arwetta Classic - 80 % merino, 20 % nylon - color 220 (green)
Onion Nettle sock - 70 % wool, 30 % nettle fiber - color 1002 (dark gey)
Hook: 5 mm with a pointy tip
Size: about 20 cm long
Gauge: 24 sts and 36 rows = 10 cm.
The different parts of the pattern is made up by the use of short rows. How I work with short rows - and how I link the end of each short row) - is described in my short row guide with step-by-step photos.
Abbreviations and explanations
ch - chain
st, sts - stitch, stitches
tch - turning chain, one chain stitch that is not included in the stitch count. In some places there are 3 turning chains - that is to reach over more than one row. In other places there are no turning chains - instead you must skip the first stitch of next row. This is when you make the thumb, the reason is to give it the right angle.
B - slip stitch worked in the back loop only
F - slip stitch worked in the front loop only
+ - This sign means that you "jump" to a row further down (in one case up), or you work over a turning point of a short row.
skip last... sts - I have written this as a help when you have to count large numbers of stitches, and the number of stitches left undone in the end of row is smaller. It could then be easier to count the skipped stitches in the end than to count the stitches you work. In every such case, only stitches of the row exactly below the current row are counted.
The pattern consists of five parts: first flower, second flower, third flower, thumb and finish. For the right mitten you make the thumb between the first and second flower. For the left mitten you make the thumb between the second and third flower.
FIRST FLOWER
With white:
ch 44, 1 tch, turn
*F 40, B 4, tch, turn.
B 12, tch, turn.
F 8, B 4, tch, turn.
B 8, tch, turn .
F 4, B 4, 3 tch, turn.
The picture is taken from the right side. The three turning chains stick out like a small tail.
The part of the work that has more rows is "down" (towards the arm when you wear the mitten) and the other side (to the left in the picture) is "up" - towards the fingers when you wear the mitten.
Pull out the loop or use a safety pin, stitch holder or similar if you want, so that it doesn't unravel while you work with the green yarn.
With green:
Make a starting loop and start working at the right end (directly on the last stitch made, turning chains excluded):
B 8 + 4 + 20, tch, turn. (Skip last 12.)
F 28, tch, turn. (Skip last 4.)
B 24, tch, turn. (Skip last 4.)
F 20, tch, turn. (Skip last 4.)
B 20 + 4 + 4, tch, turn.
F 28 + 4 + B4.
Cut the green yarn.
With white:
Put the hook back in the secured loop from the first white section. Start working on the last green stitch:
B 36 + 4, tch, turn. (Skip last 4.)
F 12, tch, turn.
B 6, tch, turn.
F 2, tch, turn.
Pull out the loop and secure it with a safety pin - do not cut the white yarn here or throughout. *
Make a starting loop and start working directly on the last made white stitch, turning chain excluded:
B 2 + 6 + 4, ch 3, tch, turn.
**F 13, tch, turn. (Skip last 2.)
B 11, F 1, tch, turn.
F 10, tch, turn.
B 9, F1, ch 1, tch, turn.
F 9, tch, turn.
B 9, tch (work this tch through the previous tch), turn.
F 9 + 2, tch, turn.
B 9, F 1, tch, turn.
F 10 +2 (2 short rows are linked here), tch, turn.
B 11, F 1, ch 1, tch, turn.
F 13 + 2 (2 short rows are linked here).
Cut the red yarn.
With white:
Put the hook back in the secured loop from the last white section. Start working on the last red stitch:
(right side facing)
B 2, tch, turn.
F 2 + 4, tch, turn.
B 6 + 6, tch, turn.
F 12 + 24 (2 short rows are linked here), B 4, 3 tch. Secure the loop.
Make a starting loop and start working at the right end (directly on the last stitch made, turning chains excluded):
B 36, tch, turn. (Skip last 4.)
F 28, tch, turn. (Skip last 8.)
B 20, tch, turn. (Skip last 8.)
F 20 + 4, tch, turn.
B 24 + 4, tch, turn.
F 28 + B 4.
With white:
Put the hook back in the secured loop from the last white section. Start working on the last green stitch (right side facing):
B 8, tch, turn.
F 4, B 4, tch, turn.
B 8 + 24 + 4 + 4 + 2, tch, turn.
F 38, B 4, tch, turn. **
For right mitten: Go on to thumb.
For left mitten:
Continue with white:
B 42 +2, tch, turn. (Skip last 3 sts.)
Go on to the second flower.
SECOND FLOWER
Work one repeat of * to *.
Next row: change to red. Make a starting loop and start working directly on the last white stitch made, turning chain excluded:
B 2 + 6 + 4 + 1, F 1, ch 1, tch, turn.
Work one repeat of ** to **.
For left mitten: secure the loop, then go on to the thumb.
For right mitten:
Continue with white:
B 42 +2, tch, turn.
Go on to the third flower.
THIRD FLOWER
Work one repeat of * to *.
Next row: change to red. Make a starting loop and start working directly on the last white stitch made, turning chain excluded:
B 2 + 6 + 4 + 1, F 1, ch 1, tch, turn.
Work one repeat of ** to **.
For both mittens: go on to FINISH section.
THUMB
Note! In the first half of this part, there are no turning chains after the F-rows. Instead, after turning you skip the first stitch, start on second stitch.
With red, right side facing, first stitch shall be placed on the 17th stitch from the right:
B 20, ch 8, tch, turn. See picture below.
F 11, turn.
Skip first st, B 10, tch, turn.
F 10 + 3, turn.
Skip first st, B 12, tch, turn.
F 12 + 3, turn.
Skip first st, B 14, tch, turn.
F 14 + 3, turn.
Skip first st, B 16, tch, turn.
F 16 + 3, turn.
Skip first st, B 10, tch, turn.
F 10 + 3, turn.
Skip first st, B 12 + 8, tch, turn.
F 18, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 10, tch, turn.
F 8, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 8+8, tch, turn.
F 14, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 14, tch, turn.
F 12, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 12, tch, turn.
F 10, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 10, tch, turn.
F 8, tch, turn. (Skip last 2 sts)
B 8, tch, turn.
F 8 +3 +3 +3 +3 +3 +3 +2. See picture below.
Cut the red yarn.
Start of thumb. There are 16 white stitches to the right of the thumb and 6 white stitches to the left.
Last row of thumb (showing wrong side of the mitten).
Crochet three stitches over every two rows - one in the turning chain and one in each of the two skipped stitches. (Last time - one less.)
In the end you should have 20 stitches in total on the serrated outline of the thumb.
Thumb finished.
With white:
Put the hook back in the secured loop from the last white section.
B 16 + 20 (over the thumb) + 6 (back on the white row) + 2 (on red row), tch, turn. See picture below.
For right mitten - go on to the second flower.
For left mitten - go on to the third flower.
White row after thumb: Fold the thumb before you can crochet the last 8 stitches.
FINISH.
Finally cut the white yarn, but leave a tail 4 times the length of the edge to be seamed, and sew the last row together with the first using the mattress stitch. Also take a piece of the red yarn and close the thumb in the same way.
Weave in ends.
Any questions can be sent to virkstaden(at)hotmail.se and hopefully I can answer them!
